Makanan dan Ubatan: Penggunaan Unsur babi/khinzir dan alternatifnya (Part I)

Oleh: Nur Azira Tukiran

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Alternative to Animal Testing in Cosmetics- The Thoyyiban Aspect

By: Nina Naquiah Ahmad Nizar

           In the Quran, the Thoyyiban aspect is emphasised on the essential quality of object, food, effort, earning, art, human being and every other aspects. The state of Thoyyiban is attained by natural relation of good environmental and societal systems whereby its correlation results in a harmonious parallel existence. Muslims in general know from the Quran that Thoyyiban is not only about food, but covers more. It constitutes of ethics too.

           In the application of cosmetics, it is sensible to unfold the theory of ethics to be used together with Thoyyiban dogma. Ethics are proposed to explain life principles that are competent of directing humankind towards a truthful moral act and to reflect on the moral systems devised by human. It has a practical concern and it is put together by the aspiration to unite deeds and knowledge, by means of applying this knowledge to do judgements’ of certain things accordingly and perhaps, showing the interaction between inner reflection and exterior action. The awareness of and ability to react carefully to the basic interdependence among all forms of life on the planet defines eco-ethical consciousness (Rebecca & Jeff, 2005).

          What is animal testing? Scientists use animals for many different purposes. Animal experimentation is appropriate to describe animal use in testing of consumer products, drugs and food. This includes testing eye shadow, lipstick, contact lens solution and shampoo (Vaughan, 2000). Animal testing revolves around the use of animals in experiments and development projects usually to determine toxicity, dosing and efficacy of test drugs before proceeding to human clinical trials. However, controversies arise when some people believe that animal testing is unnecessary, a poor scientific practice, and never an absolute representation of results in humans, as it involves animals getting injured, having to live through pain, and sometimes being left to suffer or die.

       From hadith, it is clear that Allah despises animal cruelty. We were thought to act humane to animals too. 

   عن شداد بن اوس ثنتان حفظتهما عن رسول الله صلى الله عليه وسلم قال ان الله كتب الاحسان على كل شيء فاذا قتلتم فاحسنوا القتلة واذا ذبحتم فاحسنوا الذبح وليحد احدكم شفرته فليرح ذبيحته (حديث رواه المسلم)

Shaddid b. Aus said: Two are the things which I remember Allah's Messenger (peace be upon him) having said: Verily Allah has enjoined goodness to everything; so when you kill, kill in a good way and when you slaughter, slaughter in a good way. So every one of you should sharpen his knife, and let the slaughtered animal die comfortably. [Sahih Muslim]

Rabbits, particularly albino rabbits, for example, are commonly used in testing for cosmetics and other chemicals. The main test conducted is the Draize test, which assesses drug toxicity by dropping a substance in the rabbit’s eyes or on their skin, which are then observed for redness, irritation or any other damage. This is said to be a very painful test and the rabbits are usually killed after it is completed (Hariati Azizan, 2010).

However, there are majority of researchers whom understand and work within legal obligations regarding animal testing. Considering the concerns of public nowadays, investigators pursue the ‘three Rs’ of modern research, namely ‘a replacement of animals in research, which follows on from an active development of alternatives; a reduction in the numbers of animals used in experiments; and a refinement of laboratory and field techniques to reduce invasiveness and/or to increase the value of the results’ (Vaughan, 2000).

Having said; cosmetic products should be against animal cruelty and manufacturers should practice ethics in product testing. Many NGO’s such as British Union for the Abolition of Vivisection (BUAV) and Leaping Bunny under Humane Cosmetics Standard (HCS) and the Humane Household Products Standard (HHPS) have created awareness on cosmetic product safety. The heart of the issue revolves on minimizing or eliminating cruelty to animals during scientific research. This resulted in global recognition of no animal testing for cosmetic products. The climax is when the 7^th Amendment of the EU Cosmetic Directives officially includes the provision of animal testing ban for its member states.

So, are there any alternatives to animal testing? Masson et al. highlighted since tests on animals are unacceptable anymore for cosmetic companies, other alternatives have become available and accepted. Several options include tests run on human volunteers and tests run on different material than human beings to establish cosmetic efficacy based on physical, chemical, biochemical and biological data.

Saaf Pure Skincare products are claimed to be tested only on human volunteers. This may comprise self evaluations by consumers or ‘in-use tests’ in assessing the acceptance and effectiveness of a product on the targeted consumers, cosmetically trained volunteers and also studies with a well trained experimenter (with or without instrumental methods) or experts (for instance, dermatologists and estheticians to evaluate efficacy of cosmetic products on human beings by means of visual, tactile or olfactory).

The SimplySiti products are tested through human testimonials and by SimplySiti’s definition and standard, this means that every potential product are each tested on repeatedly until positive result is shown. Since some ingredients in make-up may cause allergies in some cosmetics users, the lab is very careful in its choice of ingredients. Those who are prone to acne may especially appreciate make-up range that is mild and comfortable on skin, which are meant for problematic or even the most acne skin.  Tests are conducted on human volunteers to ensure that the makeup does not clog pores or trigger blemishes. Along the same lines, those with sensitive eyes and skin may be pleased to know that all SimplySiti products for use on the sensitive areas like the eye area for example are safe and thus making them suitable even for contact lens wearers.

Another method is to test on different material than human beings (non- human tests). Studies that cannot be performed ethically on human volunteers can be done in this manner leading to constructive and relevant information, avoiding complains on pain, stress or other negative aspects. L’Oréal has made a significant contribution in discoveries and researches into animal testing alternatives. The company has pioneered the research and development of artificially grown human skin for use in skin irritancy tests called EpiSkin. Now, The Body Shop is using this revolutionary approach to testing wherever possible.

In another research of an ongoing ToxDrop project by Dr. Beatrice Schaak, “cell-on-a-chip” technology is developed. This is hoped to replace animals in toxicity screening. The chip holds dots of human cell cultures and enzymes, which imitate human reactions to potentially toxic compounds and charts reactions over time. In Kroto Research Institute, Sheffield, exploitation on tissue engineering allows the development of a 3D skin model which could be used to replace animals in tests for skin corrosivity and phototoxicity.

The cosmetic science research area has grown since 1998, especially between 2002 and 2004, funded by the Science Research Investment Fund (SRIF). This facilitated the acquisition of a range of bio-engineering equipment, enabling the measurement of skin hydration, skin pH values, sebum level, trans-epidermal water loss, skin elasticity and skin colour, as well as the visualization of skin topography. In addition, the polarizing microscope, rheometer and texture analyser provided an insight into the structure and properties of various product forms used in cosmetics and toiletries (Danka Tamburic, 2006).

For the important claim of moisturization, Corneometer® (Courage & Khasaka, Germany) and Moisturemeter® measure the impedance on the surface of the skin. Skin firmness such as elasticity, tonicity and tissue cohesion, on the other hand, can be measured by using Cutometer®, Twistometer® or Ballistometer®. Chromametry namely Chromameter® (Minolta) or Mexameter® (Courage & Khasaka) are used to find out the skin tone. Flexabrasion® (Croda International, Plc, UK) gives more realistic values of the hair strength and surface quality (Karl Lintner 2009).

Therefore, eco-ethical can be viewed as free from animal cruelty, caring for the environment, not harming one’s body that is integrated in the quality and safety aspects, and fulfilling corporate social responsibility among others. Providing animal testing alternatives has become timely and crucial. The concept of halal cosmetics embraces an eco-ethical philosophy which rests well with modern and conservative Muslims worldwide.

HALAL MAKE UP?

By: Nina Naquiah Ahmad Nizar

“Allah is beautiful and He loves beauty.”

[Sahīh Muslim]

Cleanliness is pre-requisite to beautification, in which the state of purity is most loved by Allah and His prophet. Cleanliness, hygiene and beatification are highly related to cosmetics. There are numerous reasons that made cosmetics as women’s (and men’s) best friend. For some, cosmetics are worn daily due the importance placed on image and the competition in the workforce. Preference is more on color cosmetics that preserve and protect the skin against sun damage rather than just improving the exterior. These are the baby boomer generation who are innovation driven purchasers; yearning for age defying properties cosmetics, foundations that protect the skin against UV rays and reduce the appearance of fine lines, treatment ingredients that help a variety of skin problems, and lip glosses and lipsticks with a plumping effect. Apart from that, there are also users who want good quality mass-market personal hygiene products at affordable prices (Karl Lintner 2009).

There are disputes on whether or not halal cosmetics productions are necessary. Some may inquire if putting on make up to show non-muhrims is allowable or even in extreme cases, puts the query for halal cosmetics as darurah.  It isn’t inevitably a ‘Muslim’ principle to wear excessive make up because of the Islamic views on the importance of modesty.

Quran [24:31] And say to the believing women that they should lower their gaze and guard their modesty; that they should not display their beauty and ornaments except what (must ordinarily) appear thereof; that they should draw their veils over their bosoms and not display their beauty except to their husbands, their fathers, their husbands' fathers, their sons, their husbands' sons, their brothers or their brothers' sons, or their sisters' sons, or their women, or the slaves whom their right hands possess, or male servants free of physical needs, or small children who have no sense of the shame of sex; and that they should not strike their feet in order to draw attention to their hidden ornaments. And O you Believers! Turn you all together towards Allah, that you may attain Bliss.

So, is creating a Halal make up range in anyway contradictory? Samina, the founder of Samina Pure Make Up, in Islam, it is considered good for a wife to make the effort to look attractive for her husband while also maintaining a modest appearance when in public. There are plenty of family and women only occasions where Muslim women can wear what they want. Reality speaks; both practicing and non practicing Muslim women wear makeup, if so then why not provide a Halal option (Aftab Gulzar 2010).

In this side of the world, already there are Malaysian Halal certified cosmetics brands that include Safi, Binari, Syahirah, Clara International, and a few others. Wan Norma Wan Daud, Director of the Product and Services Development Division, Malaysian External Trade Development Corporation or MATRADE says, “We not only need to create awareness amongst the Muslims that they should be concerned about the cosmetic’s composition, but also tell them that Halal cosmetics are available and where to get them. Malaysia can sell a lot especially to the Middle East, simply because ours is certified Halal,” She also thinks that Islamic scholars must set the record straight on various issues concerning the use of cosmetics and the set limits for Muslims. 

Now, after decades, many Western companies are increasingly developing marketing campaigns and formulating products themselves with Muslims firmly in sight under the “Islamic marketing”. As the Islamic population has grown in size and affluence there are now vast community of Muslims worldwide and more multinationals are seeking to tap into the market. 

Colgate-Palmolive, for instance, claims to be the first international company to have obtained Halal certification in Malaysia for toothpaste and mouthwash products. Colgate’s products now bear the Halal logo, which also is featured in the company’s television commercials.

Ibn Umar (R) narrates that the Messenger of Allah (pbuh) said: 'Make a regular practice of the Miswaak, for verily, it is healthy for the mouth and it is a Pleasure for the Creator (i.e. Allah is pleased with the Muslim who uses the Miswaak)'.

                                                                                                                         [Sahih:Al-Bukhari]

Unilever says the Sunsilk Lively Clean & Fresh shampoo, which is sold in Malaysia and Singapore, was created for people who suffer from oily scalps after wearing any head covering, be it a baseball hat or head scarf. After company research showed that many women who wear the head scarf complained of oily scalps, it introduced the halal products in television commercial aimed at them. More to the point, The Tom’s of Maine brand had its products being certified Halal since 2006 except for bar soap and Wicked Fresh! Mouthwash, and Revlon Colorsilk and Colorsilk Luminista hair colouring products have been certified for more than ten years.

 Katie Leavitt of Tonic sums up a proposition of another makeup entrepreneur and former pharmaceutical clinician, Dr Mah Hussein-Gambles, saying that Halal is for everyone and we should approach it from the eco-ethical angle too, besides the religious angle. What's more, realizing the vast Muslim market, with the credibility of halal claimed products, she is confident that halal can sell, both for Muslims and non-Muslims. Hence, with the availability of halal cosemetics, beautify ourselves within the limits of Shariah and feel good! Wallahua’lam.

Welcome!

Assalamualaikum,

A blog for Halal Products Research Institute (IPPH) Postgraduate students has been successfullly created.

InsyaAllah, it will be a platform to share knowledge or articles regarding halal concern, issues, fraud, or anything..(yeah anything) which covers from islamic view, economics, management, tourism, scientific views and many more.

May this small efforts will benefit the Ummah! Amin!